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Knowing Nature . . .

Strathcona Beckons

March 6 , 2007
Jocie Ingram

Ruth Masters Lake photo © Dave Ingram

Early March is a time of transition between winter and spring. It is a good time to start planning hiking trips for the warmer months to come, as well as reflecting on the previous year's highlights. While previewing the recently available Comox District Mountaineering Club 2007 trip list, I found myself daydreaming about hikes we did last summer.

Particularly memorable was the traverse from Mt Washington to Buttle Lake led by Marianne Muir of the Mountaineering Club. It was a fine stretch of weather in early September, and we enjoyed full days of sun and dewless nights. With loaded backpacks, we spent four nights on the trip. Hiking over the shoulder of Mt Albert Edward, we experienced the rugged, up and down terrain that characterizes Strathcona Park.

Strathcona is BC's oldest park, created on March 1, 1911. The park was named after Lord Strathcona, a leading figure with the Canadian Pacific Railway. Spanning about 250,000 hectares, the park forms a rough triangle in the center of Vancouver Island, taking up about 7% of the island's land mass. Rising from sea level, the park is crowned by many spectacular mountains, the highest of which is the Golden Hinde, with an elevation of 2200 metres.

Strathcona is also home to  Della Falls, the highest falls in Canada. Situated deep in the hinterland of the park, Della Falls is accessible only to experienced hikers willing to undertake the long, arduous journey.

Pink Monkey Flower photo © Dave Ingram

From the other side of Albert Edward, we had tantalizing views of our next destination, Ruth Masters Lake. The blue, gem of a lake, nestled in the rocks, inspired us to descend a steep gulley, where we had to watch our footwork carefully. There are occasional cairns, but no distinct trails, and we once had to back track when we came to the top of a cliff. Hiking in Strathcona's wilderness is no "walk in the park", but there are rewards.

Finally we reached the bottom of the gulley and then ascended to Ruth Masters Lake. A rocky stream surrounded by meadows greeted us with an abundance of wildflowers and butterflies. We followed the stream to where it spilled from the lake as a small waterfall to a pool beneath.

Ruth Masters Lake is named after local legend Ruth Masters, long time Courtenay resident and renowned activist and conservationist. Masters and Roderick Haig Brown tried to protect Strathcona's Buttle Lake from being dammed in the 1950's. This was long before the word "environmentalist" was even heard of.

The dam went ahead, but in the late 1980's a more successful campaign was fought and won, when Masters and many others stopped further mining exploration in the park's pristine wilderness. The Friends of Strathcona Park, a group formed to protect Strathcona Park and other parks, continues to be active today.

Ruth Masters Lake is one of the most magical places I have ever encountered. We rested there for a day and my husband and I spent a glorious afternoon photographing flowers and butterflies, and dipping into a succession of secluded swimming holes.

Fighting off the Mosquitoes photo © Jocie Ingram

The rest of our trip had more challenges and steep terrain. After skirting Auger Mountain, we followed a bumpy ridge, which afforded views of long, slender Buttle Lake. We enjoyed a perfect sunset that evening, and began our steep descent down the Auger Mountain trail to Buttle Lake the next morning.

Over the winter all of the good things about a trip become distilled in one's mind. I can hardly remember the mosquitoes, the sore muscles, the heat headaches and the aching feet. I do remember the fine views, the shimmering lakes, the flowers and butterflies, and the sheer exhilaration of being in the mountain wilderness. Like many hikers, I would do it all again.

Hikers should not venture into the rugged backcountry of the park without topographical maps or an experienced guide. Strathcona Park, however, has options for people of all abilities. Taking a stroll around Paradise Meadows, one can view a fine display of sub-alpine flowers. Day hikers can reach several beautiful lake destinations. Most trails depart from the Raven Lodge on Mt Washington, but hikers willing to do more uphill can access the park from the old Forbidden Plateau ski lodge.

The Strathcona Wilderness Institute runs seasonal park information huts at the Paradise Meadows trailhead, and at Buttle Lake. In addition, the Comox District Mountaineering Club offers day hikes and back packing trips lead by experienced hikers.