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Knowing Nature . . .

Arizona - A Birder's Mecca

April 29, 2008
Jocie Ingram

Madera Canyon photo © Dave Ingram

Following our exploration of Arizona’s Sonoran desert, we continued our journey into the southeastern corner of the state, discovering the “sky islands” and lush riparian areas that attract birders from all over the world.

Sky islands are isolated mountain ranges, surrounded by a “sea” of flat, sun-bleached grasslands. To experience these mountain habitats, we went first to Madera Canyon, nestled in the Santa Rita Mountains about 40 miles south of Tucson. As we drove up into the canyon, we entered a beautiful forest of oaks and junipers. Our charming accommodations at the Santa Rita Lodge overlooked a creek that tumbled over boulders. Large, white-barked sycamore trees hugged the edge of the stream.

The forest canopy and creek that flows most of the year draw up to 130 species of birds, including several rarities. To see the birds, there are many opportunities to hike in the canyon and surrounding mountains. Or, one can simply sit back on a bench and watch the birds come and go from the lodge feeders.

The feeders were hopping with birds such as the sky-blue Mexican Jay, and diminutive Bridled Titmouse. We enjoyed the antics of the Acorn Woodpeckers, raucous birds with clown-like facial markings. Everyone seemed to be carrying binoculars, and I wondered if Madera Canyon, on a busy weekend, might have more birders than birds!

Dave & Alden at Paton's Feeders photo © Jocie Ingram

After a few nights, we left Madera canyon and continued south to Patagonia. En route we stopped at Tubac, a small community of artisans where there was once a Jesuit mission. We enjoyed the colourful southwest-style pottery and crafts, and walked part of the Juan Bautista de Anza Historic Trail, along the Santa Cruz River. In this lush riparian area, the leaves of the Fremont cottonwoods were a startling bright green. We were thrilled to see a fiery red Vermillion Flycatcher dive through the air, and a variety of warblers.

Patagonia is a sleepy town in the rolling, grassy hills of Arizona’s wine country. We visited nearby Patagonia Lake State Park to partake in a guided bird walk. Here we saw many new and exciting birds, including the Neotropic Cormorant, Northern Beardless-Tyrannulet (a little grey flycatcher with a big name), and the much sought after Elegant Trogan. The latter created quite a buzz in our group as it posed at eye level, seemingly at ease with the attention. This bird has the tropical colours of a ripe watermelon: green and reddish, with a white band across the chest. Arizona is one of the few places in the US where this bird can be seen.

Still dazzled by the trogan, we went back to town to visit one of the most famed birding spots in Arizona, the Patons’ feeders. For over a decade, Marion Paton and her late husband Wally have invited the public to watch hummingbirds at their feeders. There are often more hummingbirds at the Patons’ home than any other place in Arizona. Armchairs are provided, allowing for excellent views of these flashy-coloured birds.

Leaving Patagonia, we continued east. Passing by a series of canyons in the Huachuca Mountains, and we only had time to explore one of them, Ramsey Canyon. Here we peered into a small pond to see the rare and endangered Ramsey Canyon Leopard Frog. I was surprised to see a Douglas-fir tree, which reminded me of home. Southeastern Arizona is at a crossroads for four different ecosystems, which include the Sonoran desert to the west, the Chihuahuan desert to the east, Sierra Madrean influence from Mexico, and the Rocky Mountains to the north. Some of the rocky mountain species, such as Douglas-fir and ponderosa pine (which are found in BC) extend into Arizona.

Chiricahua National Monument photo © Dave Ingram

Continuing east, we crossed briefly into New Mexico before reaching the hamlet of Portal on the edge of the Chiricahua Mountains. The rich diversity of the Chiricahuas attracts birders and biologists in droves. We enjoyed a visit to the Southwestern Research Station, a large field station and laboratory for scientists maintained by the American Museum of Natural History.

With some trepidation, we decided to take the narrow, winding gravel road through the Chiricahua pass. It was a slow journey, and we stopped along the way to look at Mexican Chickadees, and some familiar birds from home such as Steller’s Jays and Red-shafted Flickers. Having arrived on the other side of the pass, we carried on to Chiricahua National Monument. Here, eons of erosion have left spires, balanced rocks, and fantastical sculpted rock formations that appear to be made by the hands of a giant.

Our holiday was soon coming to an end. The birding and sightseeing was far from disappointing, but I was rather sad that we hadn’t seen a Greater Roadrunner, a stripy bird the size of a small chicken with an exceptionally long tail. Roadrunners have long legs for running after prey (lizards and snakes). At a picnic ground on our final day, Dave said, “look behind you!" I carefully turned around, and to my surprise, two roadrunners were ambling through the grass. It was a fitting end to the trip.